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I’m kind of a beginner in the vintage computers world, although I have been using computers since I was very little in the early 90s. I really dig playing with old hardware and software and I like your community very much. So I got this motherboard.
These are some pictures I took plus some info. In the back it reads: And also, I don’t know how this DIP ram works, the way it is grouped is strange to me. I hope somebody can clear this up, please. I see it has 4 banks of 2 pin DIP sockets. And this repeats exactly the same way right next to them.
I also see 4 banks of 2 pin DIP sockets, but this aren’t repeated. Would it be advisable to take them off the card and put them in the motherboard?
I see some corrosion in a nearby component. What is the most recommended and safest way to deal with this? Is there a way to use a regular CR button battery? Thank you very much for your patience and help.
You may be able to find some info on your board here, that will help with ram configuration: You will have to look up the datasheet on the ram chips you have, but i would guess the “1M” in the part no. You need 8 1Mbit x1 to make 1MByte.
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Although in this case you would only have an 8-bit bus to the RAM, bit is normal in a I would guess you actually have 1MBytes of ram.
The other sockets are for a different type of ram chip. If you did Install them, they may overlap with the ram already installed, and they may be too slow for a datazheet system, and it’s only 64KB of RAM.
The battery can be desoldered, or clipped off. If not you can solder in a new battery, or wires to a battery saa1m304p-07. The coin cells are not rechargeable, so they are not the best option. Also there is a list o motherboards here http: Clean the motherboard afterwards with isopropyl alcohol. The 4-pin connector is VERY probably for external battery http: Thanks for your input.
It really does help. Well, it turns out this is a previous version, the M Just a few moments ago I found the info.
Component List [A] page 16 :: Oxygen Electronics, LLC
I figured it was an older model, so I started googling incrementally: So now I understand better how this kind of RAM works. The smaller DIP, the ones with pin are meant to be used for parity checking, and the larger ones pin long are the actual RAM.
BEFORE I also desoldered the battery off the board and cleaned the surface below of it with vinegar, lemon juice aa1m304p-07 cotton swabs.
It’s strange to note that not only the coating of a track near the battery got destroyed, but strangely some resistors near the the RAM also were green from the sulfur. And two little pin holes in one RAM socket were green too. I was worried about the coating of a track that got damaged, and I read that it is recommended to re-paint it with nail polish.
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Or maybe simply covering it with paper or aaa1m304p-07 Found the external battery header. But I’m concerned eatasheet you just said, is it actually meant for a non-rechargeable battery, or it will blow the CR I’m planning to use?
I got the holder from a now defunct motherboard How could I test this? My knowledge in electronics is very limited but I’m eager to learn and I couldn’t find more specifications of this for this motherboard yet which by the way, seems to be somewhat of a rara avis. Datasheft, they need to operate at the same speed. The chips you have are K x4. The rest are for power and addressing. One chip alone would give you a 4-bit interface.
You have 4 chips in bank 0, and 4 more in bank 1, giving a total of KBytes or 1MBytes. I hope this explains it.
An alternative memory chip is a K x1. To get an 8-bit interface you would need eight chips, a bit interface, 16 chips. Since aaam304p-07 takes up lots of space the K x4 was implemented. Parity only requires 1-bit for every 8-bytes in this context.
So, an 8-bit interface becomes a 9-bit interface and a bit interface becomes an bit interface. To avoid wasting RAM, on this motherboard, memory with parity is arranged as: Four chips of K x4 and two chips of K x1 per bank.
This gives you 18 data pins.
I hope this explains it, sorry if it’s a bit confusing. FWIW, i would not worry about adding parity memory. It sometimes helps to think of it from the perspective of how close components are from an electrical perspective, rather than physical location. The corrosion tends to leach its way down traces.
However if corrosion has set in on a trace that has nothing to do with the battery it just runs near it now you have a totally different circuit with possible leaching. I have not heard of that, but I guess clear would work. I have used a xylene based insulating varnish for motor windings before, but that’s only because I had some. Its also a bit thick so nail polish may work better. Your battery corrosion does not look that bad at all now. The external battery header is usually for a non-rechargeable battery, so if you connect a non-rechargeable here there should not be an issue.
If you want to solder to the same terminals where the old battery was located then a rechargeable at the same voltage would be the best bet.
I doubt you can blow a CR if you try to charge it with a motherboard. I have seen people use a diode to stop the charging, but I have no experience with it myself. Portable telephone batteries are usually rechargeable and have been known to work.
But since you have a battery header I would just use that. I placed a CR holder in the same original place the barrel battery that is to say, the internal battery was, using the same contacts. The 4-pin external battery header CN10 plays an important role here.
Through tests and trial and error I found out the following: I removed this jumper and jumped pins 1 and 3, so now the motherboard receives 3V from the CR button battery and saves the BIOS configuration successfully.
This is how the battery and external battery header look like now: